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L'Ortolan

Church Lane, SHINFIELD, Reading, RG2 9BY

3 rosettes

The setting, in the countryside a little way out of Reading, and its clerical origins as a vicarage, may confer the slight air of an Anthony Trollope novel on L'Ortolan. This attractively faced redbrick building in pretty gardens has been home to outstanding dining for a number of years, and Tom Clarke has brought new energy and focus to the production here. At tables looking out over the lawns, or in the kitchen if that's your thing, you may well feel you have one of the vantage-points of modern British gastronomy. Harmoniously contrasting flavours are built up in elaborate dishes such as fried duck liver with matching parfait, smoked duck, pineapple and spiced meringue, or the sublimely earthy egg ravioli with trompettes and textured celeriac in truffle jus. Pedigree local meats are hunted down for mains like venison loin with purple pomme purée, blackberries and beetroot in juniper sauce, or there may be confidently presented fish such as stone bass with braised chicory and monk's beard in red wine jus. All the little extras are fitted around these inspired dishes, up to a fragrant finale of buttermilk pannacotta with poached rhubarb, gingerbread purée and rosemary ice cream. The Menu Gourmand offers a representative tour of the territory.

Further information

Tel: 0118 988 8500
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 2 wks Xmas-New Year

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern French
Chef: Tom Clarke
Number of seats: 58
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children's portions.
No children under 3 yrs.
Parking available.

 
 
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Directions

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From M4 junct 11 take A33 towards Basingstoke. At 1st lights turn left, after garage turn left, 1m turn right at Six Bells pub. Restaurant 1st left (follow tourist signs)
Nearest station: Reading

Local information for RG2 9BY

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