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Restaurant 23 & Morgan's Bar

34 Hamilton Terrace, ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA, CV32 4LY

3 rosettes

Peter Knibb's extravagantly stylish restaurant and bar operation is the cynosure of Leamington Spa's dining and drinking scene. Housed in a splendid, white-fronted Victorian building in the town centre, with steps leading up to a portico entrance, it's done out inside in best contemporary fashion. Apple and aubergine are the principal tones in Morgan's Bar, where Leamington sophisticates repair for galvanising cocktails and quality wines, and the dining room is done in more muted tones, with gathered drapes and lighting from outsized haloes. Knibb is a local boy, whose career began with a placement at Claridges in London, and has been in the steady ascendant ever since. His accomplished cooking is distinguished by a determination to work with the grain of top-drawer raw materials, producing worlds of satisfaction from dishes that are multi-faceted without falling into the everything-but-the-kitchen-sink tendency. Crab and salmon ravioli with pressed cucumber in lemongrass bisque, dressed with herring roe, makes an uplifting sea-savoury starter, or there could be rabbit loin parcelled in pancetta with Agen prunes and pistachios, a distinctly French-inspired dish that acquires further depth from its accompaniments of a rabbit croquette and the seared liver. At main, roasts and sautés do prime components proud: cod comes with butternut squash, Jerusalem artichokes and Puy lentils in red wine, while venison rump is teamed with a pithivier of the meat, as well as Savoy cabbage, salsify and puréed ceps. The same intensive attention is lavished on desserts such as Brillat-Savarin cheesecake with gingerbread, poached rhubarb, ginger-beer jelly and rhubarb sorbet, or perhaps chocolate delice with hazelnut polenta cake, roasted pear and popcorn ice cream, and there are fine British and French artisan cheeses. The seven-course taster menu with its wine options is worth pre-booking for an occasion.

Further information

Tel: 01926 422422
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Mon
Dates closed: 26 Dec, 1 Jan
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for dinner: Sun

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern European
Chef: Peter Knibb
Number of seats: 65
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 2
Disabled toilets.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £18.00
2 Course dinner from: £15.95
3 Course dinner from: £18.95
Sunday lunch: £24.00-£26.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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M40 junct 13 onto A452 towards Leamington Spa. Follow signs for town centre, just off Holly Walk, next to police station
Nearest station: Leamington Spa

Local information for CV32 4LY

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