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Restaurant 23 & Morgan's Bar

34 Hamilton Terrace, ROYAL LEAMINGTON SPA, CV32 4LY

3 rosettes

A move around the corner in 2012 to a porticoed white Victorian building in Leamington town centre was an exciting development for Peter Knibb's impeccably stylish bar-restaurant. The first half of the enterprise is a comfortable, elegant bar with violet seating, serving glitzy cocktails and quality wines, while the latter is a formally toned room run with great professional aplomb, where tables are crisply covered, and lighting comes from a mixture of giant ceiling rings and candles. Knibb cooks a dynamic, and constantly developing, version of modern European cooking that has enough impact, freshness and originality to have gained a third Rosette this time. Dishes move with the seasons, using local suppliers, but are innovative and interesting too. Start with a kind of reworked ragout of smoked ham hock, globe artichoke, peas, cleverly crisped bone marrow and summer truffle, or brilliantly rich and comforting oxtail tortellini, its matching consommé poured on at table, the earthiness enhanced with puréed Jerusalem artichokes, a single chanterelle and pumpkin seeds. Fish main courses have been stunning, whether for aromatic roasted turbot with fennel, orange and razor-clams, or sea bass on buttery boulangère potato, alongside charred cauliflower and a shrimp and caper beurre noisette. Meat dishes offer different cuts and organs, as though following a butcher's illustrated manual, and might take in Lighthorne lamb three ways (loin, breast and sweetbread), with basil mash and an olive and tomato lamb jus, or belly and head of Blythburgh pork with raisin purée, candied fennel and langoustines. A fashionably disjointed approach to desserts sees a cherry Bakewell arrive as separate parfait, curd, sorbet, sponge and candied almonds, or there may be banana tarte Tatin with salt caramel ice cream, or poached apricots and raspberries with lemon curd, scented with elderflower. English and French cheeses with rhubarb chutney complete the bill.

Further information

Tel: 01926 422422
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Mon
Dates closed: 26 Dec, 1 Jan
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for dinner: Sun

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern European
Chef: Peter Knibb
Number of seats: 65
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 2
Disabled toilets.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £18.00
2 Course dinner from: £15.95
3 Course dinner from: £18.95
Sunday lunch: £24.00-£26.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Directions

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M40 junct 13 onto A452 towards Leamington Spa. Follow signs for town centre, just off Holly Walk, next to police station
Nearest station: Leamington Spa

Local information for CV32 4LY

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