The Jack In The Green Inn

The Jack, as it's known to its dedicated local fan-base, is a sensitively refurbished country pub-cum-restaurant not far from Exeter, where the original frame of roughcast stone walls and beams houses, among its various nooks and crannies, a bright, contemporary-styled eatery done in pale lemon. The powerhouse combination of proprietor Paul Parnell and his skilled head of culinary operations, Matthew Mason, stamp the place with bundles of personality, bolstered by a cornucopia of thoroughbred Devon produce, including fine ales, ciders and fruit juices. For the 'Totally Devon' route through the menu, aim for the items highlighted in bold. The food can be as straightforward as chicken breast with mushrooms and tarragon, or salmon with watercress hollandaise, but a creative streak also brings on five-course tasting menus which may feature the likes of sea bass in Thai broth, herb-crusted beef fillet with shallot purée in balsamic, and white chocolate mousse with lemon curd and fennel pollen ice cream, with a pause for regional cheeses before dessert. Vegetarian and vegan menus ensure nobody feels neglected.