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Restaurant Nathan Outlaw

The St Enodoc Hotel, ROCK, Wadebridge, PL27 6LA

4 rosettes

The Nathan Outlaw brand goes from strength to strength: like many a canny contemporary chef he's not shy of spreading his name far and wide via appearances in the BBC's Great British Menu and other armchair foodie slots on the telly, but the celeb stuff doesn't get in the way of cooking fish in a masterly manner. His empire now encompasses venues in London and Port Isaac, but the serious business goes on in his full-works, namesake flagship in The St Enodoc Hotel. This boutique gem is done out with an understated minimal look involving neutral tones, tasteful art, and an edge of metropolitan chic. Nothing other than sumptuous views over the Camel Estuary distracts from the creative and intelligent work that leaves the kitchen. The concept behind this intimate operation is to let the top-class Cornish materials speak eloquently for themselves, helped along, naturally, with high-flying technique and an innate sense of what works with what. Choosing what to eat is easy: since most diners see this as something of a foodie pilgrimage, there's just a single fish and seafood-only tasting menu, plus a veggie alternative. First off, deliciously plump Porthilly mussels are matched with a smooth cauliflower purée, crisp bacon and black onion seeds in a dish that kicks off proceedings in fine style, before raw scallops pointed up with celeriac purée and a dressing of tarragon oil and roasted celeriac stock. It all looks beautiful on the plate and the quality of the ingredients is never in doubt, with the flavours leaving a lasting impression as one dish follows another. Next up, a superb fillet of lemon sole comes with a crispy breaded oyster, Jerusalem artichoke purée and a warm dill dressing, followed by grey mullet with pickled kohlrabi, a delicate curry sauce and broccoli. Turbot on the bone is roasted to perfection and served with pickled shimeji mushrooms, a smooth mushroom purée and sprout tops - a divine combination. Follow on with a cheese course which is certainly a cut above - Ragstone goats' cheese with various textures of beetroot and candied walnuts - before a brace of desserts such as blood orange curd (rather like a brûlée) with rhubarb and a crunchy crumble, and a clever spin on tarteTatin in the shape of a pear tart with hazelnuts and a stunning yoghurt sorbet. If you're seeking a more unbuttoned alternative, Outlaw's Restaurant serves a 3-course seasonal menu to go with those sublime watery views.

Further information

Tel: 01208 862737
& 863394
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: Xmas, Jan
Days closed for lunch: all week

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British, Seafood
Chef: Nathan Outlaw, Chris Simpson
Number of seats: 22
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
No children under 12 yrs.
Parking available.

 
 
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Directions

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M5/A30/A39 to Wadebridge. B3314 to Rock
Nearest station: Bodmin Parkway

Local information for PL27 6LA

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