A splendid Grade II listed building, The Forbury has most bases covered for the modern traveller, including a plush little cinema. On the lower-ground floor, it also has a split-level contemporary restaurant, with wiggly cherry-red stripes along the walls and seating in a multiplicity of shades. A seasonally-changing menu deals in modern brasserie dishes such as spicy crab cake with horseradish cream, whole grilled Torbay sole with caper butter and saffron potatoes, and chargrilled spatchcocked poussin with herb spätzle. Good sides include butter beans and chorizo or caponata, and desserts might run to an invitingly gooey chocolate fondant and pistachio ice cream.