Driftwood

Rosevine, PORTSCATHO, TR2 5EW

Perched above the sea on a Cornish cliff top, Driftwood has great views over Gerrans Bay, a rather chic New England feel, and a team in the kitchen lead by Chris Eden which is in harmony with its environment. A drink on the decked terrace will bring it all into focus: the beauty of the spot and the local flavour on the menu. The restaurant has large picture windows through which to take in that vista in all weathers; the room done out in a light, minimalistic way with neutral colours and a pale wood floor, and splashes of seaside yellow and blue. A good deal of the produce on the menu comes from around these parts - including out of the glistening sea below - and it is cooked in a modish manner with no small amount of skill. A first course dish of sautéed John Dory is partnered with gnocchi, field mushroom purée, coppa and truffle, while caramelised rabbit boudin comes with pickled heritage carrots, braised endive and prune purée. These are great flavours and intelligent combinations. Next up, perhaps pan-fried turbot with pumpkin purée, chanterelles, leeks and celery, and parmesan croquettes, and to finish, Tregothnan lemon verbena sorbet, white chocolate and vanilla, or Cornish cheeses with home-made accompaniments.

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Came to this restaurant expecting high hopes but was slightly disappointed with the service. The food was of a good standard showing some exceptional technical skills but most was on an average scale. Judging by the style of food I would say the head chef reminds me of a young Delia Smith in the making !!

Reviewer: alex, london
Visited: 25 July 2008

142 of 269 people found this review helpful.
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I went to this restaurant with high hopes but was slightly disappointed with the service and some of the dishes. The kitchen show some great technical skills in some dishes and lacking in others. Judging by the style of food on offer I would say the head chef reminds me of a young Delia Smith in the making !!

Reviewer: alex, london
Visited: 25 July 2008

140 of 272 people found this review helpful.
Did you find it helpful? Yes |No