JSW

The chef-proprietor's initials make up the name of this delightful restaurant with rooms in a smartly done up one-time coaching inn, and deservedly so, for here we have a chef who gives his all at every service, turning out his creative style of contemporary British food with a French inflection. Jake Watkins (the 'S' stands for Saul) puts the highest importance on produce, sourcing ingredients with a zealous determination, and ensuring that those lovingly gathered materials are allowed to shine without being overwhelmed by too much fiddling about. This is confident, refined cooking, but at its heart is an intelligent simplicity that is hard to achieve. It all takes place in a 17th-century building with lots of character - oak beams, etc. - and a pleasingly neutral, contemporary décor, with well-spaced tables and a charming and professional service team. There is a tasting menu (with optional wine flight), a very reasonably priced set menu, and a fixed-price carte with a sensible four choices at each course. Everything is made in-house including the superb breads. Warm fillet of salmon with watercress purée exemplifies the style with its simplicity and complementary flavours, or start with the more robust duck cassoulet with duck boudin and foie gras croûtons. Next up, wild local sea bass with cauliflower purée and shiitake mushrooms, or '72 Hours' ox cheek with truffle mash and liquorice. Flavour is to the fore at dessert stage, too; perhaps a peanut butter parfait and jelly sandwich. Lurking beneath the restaurant are cellars stocked with over 700 bins that make up the superb wine list.