The Victoria Inn

Good beaches and lovely pubs are not quite 10-a-penny in Cornwall, but the county has more than its fair share. And Perranuthnoe has a couple of crackers. The beach is a draw for holiday-makers, whilst The Victoria Inn attracts anyone who knows a good thing when they see it. It is still an unspoilt pub with all the natural west-country charm you'd hope for, with real ales on tap and a lack of pretension all round, whilst Stewart Eddy's straight-up, clearly focused cooking elevates the place still further. Whether you eat in the bar or the marginally more formal dining area, you'll get fine, fresh regional produce and clear-headed food. There's Cornish crab, of course, but this time with warm garlic toast, pickled fennel and herb salad and aïoli; next up, perhaps slow-roasted Primrose Herd belly of pork, or wild mushroom and local vegetable risotto with Lyburn cheese. Valrhona dark chocolate and espresso mousse with Cornish sea salt and caramel sauce and coffee ice cream reveals the chef's experience under the tutelage of the great and the good.