The Victoria Inn

The Victoria, in a seaside village with a good stretch of beach, is reputedly one of the oldest inns in the county. Real ale is on hand-pump in the traditional bar, with its wood-burner, while the restaurant is more contemporary in décor, with artwork on the walls under a beamed ceiling and lots of wooden furniture, including high-backed settles. The menu sets out the philosophy: to cook quality ingredients simply to allow natural flavours to show through. Thus, distinct components in dishes set each other off, as in a starter of crab, gravad lax and anchovies with a pickled fennel and dill salad and horseradish cream, and main courses such as slow-roast belly pork with hogs' and black puddings, champ and apple sauce. Fish dishes are listed on a board, cheeses are from artisan producers - or blow out on sticky ginger pudding with toffee sauce, apple compôte and vanilla ice cream.