6 Middle Street, PADSTOW, PL28 8AP
Down one of Padstow's narrow streets, just back from the harbour, Paul Ainsworth's townhouse restaurant has been a major player here since 2006, and since 2010 he's had a second address down the road called Rojano's on the Square-empire building must be in the water round these parts. Paul has built a reputation for creating contemporary food that is focused on the regional produce that makes Cornwall such a culinary destination these days, while exposure on TV via the BBC's The Great British Menu has done him no harm. The restaurant occupies three diminutive spaces on the ground floor and another upstairs, with the Georgian charm of the spaces intact, some well-chosen arty pieces on the shelves and lit alcoves, and dark-wood tables that might be a wee bit close together for some. The cooking is modern inasmuch as all sorts of new-fangled ideas are embraced along the way, from cooking techniques to flavour combinations, but there is level-headedness, too, with the ingredients given the opportunity to make an impression on their own merits. Porthilly oysters are hard to ignore at the best of times, and doubly so here, where they are served crisp-fried and matched with cured pork, green apple and fennel, or go for another seafood opener that delivers torched mackerel in a Med-inspired dish with celeriac remoulade, coppa ham and cucumber. Next up, cod and crab combine in a main course that shows off the best of the West, while full-flavoured venison arrives with 'pain au pudding' and yeast-glazed celery root. To finish, there's the 'fairground tale' (the dish that wowed the judges at the Beeb), or a Cornish 'trifle' with blood orange and saffron. There's also an inventive children's menu and set lunch option.
Tel: 01841 532093
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email
Days closed: Sun-Mon (excl BH Sun)
Dates closed: 24-26 Dec, 19 Jan-12 Feb
Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Paul Ainsworth, John Walton
Number of seats: 46
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
Vegetarian meals available.
No children under 4 yrs.
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £30.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.