Paul Ainsworth at No. 6

Padstow has long been a foodie magnet, thanks to a certain Mr Stein and his Seafood Restaurant. But in a sense it's now the turn of Mr Ainsworth to pull in the food-loving crowds, especially after his appearances representing the South West on BBC Two's Great British Menu. A small Georgian townhouse - No. 6 - just off Padstow's main high street is where you'll find him (unless he's filming for the telly, of course). He put his name above the door of this 18th century building in 2008, having honed his skills in London working with some of the top names in the business (including Gordon Ramsay and Marcus Wareing). It's a smart, contemporary-looking restaurant spread across several small rooms, with tightly set tables and a warm, buzzy vibe with gentle music playing and friendly, eager to please staff. The food surely can't fail to please: based on peerless Cornish produce, rooted in the classics but brought bang up-to-date with lashings of imaginative ideas and slick presentation, it's the kind of food that makes you want to come back for more - and more. Smoked cod's roe with crackling and superb mini loaves of hot, home-made bread give a hint of the delights to come, before a meal gets properly underway with something like blow-torched mackerel, accurately cooked and with a chargrilled flavour, served with a textbook celeriac remoulade, Parma ham and pickled cucumber - a simple, flavour-packed starter. Main-course 'salmon and lobster' comes as a lightly cooked piece of sea-fresh fish, a succulent lobster tail and claw and a perfectly made ravioli, with English mustard, sea purslane and cheddar cleverly bringing the whole dish together. 'Chocolate cake - pistachio, Caramac, dark chocolate sorbet' is an inspired dessert, the 'cake' actually being pistachio, embedded with crunchy glazed nuts, and the chocolate coming as a ganache covered with thin chocolate, which turns into a wickedly indulgent molten chocolate and caramel sauce when the liquid Caramac is poured over.