Paul Ainsworth at No. 6

It may be a Georgian townhouse with a shady past as a smugglers' den, but these days No. 6 cuts a dash as a smart, contemporary dining room with a relaxed vibe. Black and white tiled flooring, white walls, unclothed tables, grey leather chairs and a backing track of chilled-out music deliver that of-the-moment mood. The cooking takes a classical approach overlaid with a touch of modern sparkle in clean-cut, well-crafted dishes driven by tip-top local ingredients and flavour. Day-boat lemon sole is served with mussels, prawns, lemongrass and basil broth, while Cornish lamb (fillet and shoulder) is perked up with capers, mint, anchovy relish, and served with sweetbreads. A signature espresso coffee brûlée dessert comes with 'fairground' doughnuts, or strike out for the British cheeses with home-made treacle bread and quince chutney. The fixed-price lunch is a jolly good deal by any standards.