The Venture In Restaurant

The gloriously higgledy-piggledy timbered building on Ombersley's high street dates from the early part of the 15th century. Inside has been decorated in more modern style, but the building retains the charming evidence of its venerability in blackened beams, exposed stone walls and a vast inglenook fireplace. Toby Fletcher cooks an unfussy, sharply defined version of modern Anglo-French food, embracing accurately timed sautéed king prawns on leek risotto with lemon and garlic butter, and a moist, flavourful rendering of confit belly pork with pickled red cabbage, creamy mash and sage and apple jus. Portions tend to the substantial, and any gaps will be filled at meal's end by sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream, or apple and blackberry crumble with praline parfait.