Hambleton Hall

It's hard to imagine there's a lovelier setting for a grand country-house hotel. Built in Victorian times by a brewing magnate, amid rolling Rutland countryside and with views across Rutland Water (the largest man-made lake in Western Europe no less), the house and gardens are equally matched for jaw-dropping prettiness. Tim and Stefa Hart have been at the helm for over 30 years and clearly not a single stone has been left unturned - attention to detail runs right through the place, from the grandly elegant fixtures and fittings, to the beautifully manicured gardens. It is a world-class hotel, for sure, but it also has a team in the kitchen that can live up to the setting. Lunch and dinner are served in two rooms which are both splendidly proportioned in the Victorian manner, with original features and tables dressed up to the nines, plus wonderful views over the grounds to the water. Chef Aaron Patterson leads his team of 16 with assurance, constantly developing new takes on classical British dishes for the daily-changing menu, whilst never resorting to gimmicks or show-boating, and always getting the best out of the top-notch produce. Perhaps in appreciation of today's economic realities, the not-so-cheap carte is supported by a 'lunch for less' menu which provides a canny entry point. Dishes are beautifully presented on the plate, with the well informed and smartly attired staff (expect distinctly unstuffy yet polished delivery) describing the food with genuine passion. Great depths of flavour are to be had from riceless risotto of squid with a cannelloni of chorizo, while a rich and flavoursome loin of fallow venison with sloe gin jelly introduces a little tableside theatre when the sauce of chocolate and passionfruit arrives in a small copper pan. Passionfruit might crop up again in a beautifully risen soufflé served with banana sorbet. The little extras are excellent here: breads are made at Hambleton's Bakery (the beer barm and sourdough are fantastic), canapés might include beetroot meringue with goats' cheese, and amuse-bouche a potato bouillon flavoured with truffle. The lovingly constructed wine list favours small producers and features plenty of unusual bottles, so prepare to be guided through by sommelier Dominique Baduel.