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Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms

Lenton Lane, Trentside, NOTTINGHAM, NG7 2SA

5 rosettes

It feels gloriously right that one of Britain's A-list addresses for cutting-edge concept dining isn't in the West End of London, or on the Edinburgh waterfront, or in Bray. With respect to all those distinguished purlieus, a renovated red-brick building on a lane near a flyover on the edgelands of Nottingham is so counter-intuitive as to constitute a stroke of genius all in itself. Especially when you consider you're not necessarily here just to eat and go, but are invited to stay in one of the eight guest-rooms, currently under refurbishment as we go to print. This is a destination place if ever there was. During its summer recess in 2012, the kitchen was rejigged and redesigned, which is important when you are offering diners the chance of sitting in it. A party of four can huddle on a stylish new bench and watch Team Bains in action. The book to accompany the venture, Too Many Chefs and Only One Indian, was published in November 2012. A truly excellent brigade of staff has been assembled here, from sous to sommelier level ('Laurent and Andreas are available to discuss all your wine requirements' - do they do house calls? one wonders facetiously). It's another world, and it all flows from the quicksilver creative intellect of Satwant Singh Bains himself. If you're at all sceptical about the technological movement in cookery, here is the place to still those doubts. What Bains is good at is not just the refinement of fabulous dishes composed of thoroughbred ingredients - we hope that comes with the territory at five Rosettes - but all the thinking that leads up to it too. The template is an analytical approach to the building-blocks of food, based on the five western taste categories; the seven- and ten-course menus are flagged with colour-coded blobs in varying permutations and strengths to alert you to which dimensions of taste you're about to be plunged into. A concerto of all five is in play in the opening black scallop, before bitter recedes for a follow-up of roast roots with béarnaise in dashi stock. Then all five sound again in Cornish crab with avocado and sea herbs. A principal dish of braised ox cheek with pickled veg in a smoked parsley emulsion is big on umami, or there could be Wiltshire roe deer with cauliflower, pear, blue cheese and chocolate, while bitter plays off sweet in the first dessert, a jelly and ice cream job flavoured with pine and Earl Grey. The ten-courser might end with the famed treacle sponge with salted apple and frozen cream, where nips of sour and salt offset the sweetness of parsnip (but of course) in the dough. Call your own shots for the bespoke menu package, 'Unique'.

Further information

Tel: 0115 986 6566
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 2 wks Jan, 1 wk May, 2 wks Aug
Days closed for lunch: all week

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Sat Bains
Number of seats: 40
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
No children under 8yrs.
Parking available.

 
 
Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms, Nottingham

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Directions

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M1 junct 24, A453 for approx 8m. Through Clifton, road divides into 3 - take middle lane signed 'Lenton Lane Industrial Estate', then 1st left, left again. Follow brown Restaurant Sat Bains sign
Nearest station: Nottingham

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