Terry M at The Celtic Manor Resort

Hospitality on an epic scale is the name of the game at the luxurious Celtic Manor Resort, whether you are here for a leisure splurge in the spa and health club, suited and booted for a corporate event, or up for the golf (the Twenty Ten course was designed for the Ryder Cup tournament of that year). Terry M is the relaunched flagship dining venue. It is a triumph of glossy contemporary design with its darkwood flooring, space-age blue and gold lighting, crystal bead chandeliers, and high-backed leather chairs at linen-clad tables. As you would hope, the kitchen headed up by Tim McDougall takes a serious approach to its work, delivering refined, high-gloss dishes with full-on, clearly delineated flavours. The bounty of Wales is treated with due respect in a repertoire that has its feet solidly in the classics, but doesn't shy from reworking it all with well-judged flair. A richly indulgent first course might be torchon of duck liver cooked in port and served with an ultra-thin walnut wafer, followed by tenderloin and rump of woodland pork (wonderful flavour) with black pudding and choucroute. To finish; bitter chocolate mousse looks (and tastes) a treat with its accompanying basil sorbet and blood oranges. The heavyweight wine list takes an entertaining global tour of the world's prestigious vineyards.