Donnington Valley Hotel & Spa

A former AA Hotel of the Year, Donnington Valley is a modern golfing and spa venue that includes, in the Wine Press, a restaurant that's ahead of the bland corporate pack by quite some distance. Against a backdrop of low-key colour, with a mezzanine floor above, it forms a relaxing setting for Kelvin Johnson's locally-sourced and unfussily presented cooking. Classical combinations produce parsnip and apple soup, or chicken and wild mushroom ballottine with orchard chutney, for starters, and accurately rendered main dishes such as the haddock that comes with horseradish mash and semi-dried tomatoes, or lamb shank with Mediterranean vegetables and couscous. Finish refreshingly with a slice of lemon mascarpone tart adorned with raspberries. There's also a good choice of wines by the glass.