Chewton Glen Hotel & Spa

The 18th-century red-brick mansion never fails to impress. Within a walk of the sea, it is set in 130 acres that include a helipad and a garden providing the kitchen with vegetables, herbs and soft fruit; leisure facilities, including a fabulous spa, are outstanding, and there's also a kids' club. Staff are approachable, friendly and professional, adding to the enjoyment of eating in the luxuriously appointed Vetiver restaurant without detracting from a sense of occasion. Seafood is a strong point, from crab with apple and celeriac remoulade, to a main-course platter of fruits de mer. The cooking is based on prime ingredients, and a solid grounding in the classical repertoire is evident: emmental soufflé, Dover sole meunière, and beef Wellington, for instance. Daily trolley specials are popular - rack of pork, say, or roast monkfish tail - with the kitchen elsewhere plucking ideas from around the world: tagliatelle alle vongole, or tuna tartare with wasabi crème fraîche, followed by lamb tagine with couscous and harissa, Thai-style lobster curry, or Sardinian fish stew. Desserts, listed with a recommended wine by the glass, have ranged from classic egg custard tart with clove ice cream to ginger and lemongrass crème caramel with poached pears.