Y Polyn

'We don't pour your wine for you and we don't have tablecloths,' announces the team that runs Y Polyn. Moreover, 'staff often wear jeans'. Any extraneous sense of formality thus banished, you are invited to kick back and enjoy some powerfully accomplished country-pub cooking, and quite likely find yourselves rubbing shoulders with local celebs as you do so. Value for money and impressive consistency are the name of the game, visible in a bowl of heartily warming fish soup with all the trimmings, and mains such as crisply roasted pork belly with caramelised apple and long strips of crunchy crackling, or house takes on lamb hotpot or coq au vin. The money dessert is a pannacotta made with Carmarthenshire yoghurt and cream, served with honey-roast plum, and there are good Welsh cheeses too.