The Hand & Flowers

Tom and Beth Kerridge's whitewashed pub on the outskirts of Marlow could be considered the model modern restaurant. From its informal and unpretentious appearance (flagstone floors, beams and exposed stone walls meet neutral colours, leather banquettes and cloth-less, smartly-set tables) and its intelligently straightforward food, The Hand & Flowers hits the spot with consistency. The informed and enthusiastic service also helps to set the tone of the place. Tom's CV reveals a past spent working in some serious kitchens, including The Capital and Adlard's in Norwich, and it is clear with what arrives on the plate that he has both considerable technical skill and the confidence to keep things relatively simple. The food takes a broadly modern British direction, with classical French cooking at the root of much of it, and the seasonally-changing menu is based around first-class produce. Somerset smoked eel is partnered with beetroot Royale and caper salad in a starter of well-judged and deftly handled flavours, followed by a main course such as saddle of Thames Valley lamb with bacon, pearl barley and laverbread. Flavour is to the fore once again with desserts, so thyme pannacotta is enriched with heather honey, honeycomb and whisky, and apple tart comes with caramel ice cream. There's a three-dish bar menu available at lunchtime, and the patio is an option in the milder months.

M40 junct 4/M4 junct 8/9 follow A404 to Marlow
Nearest station: Marlow

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