The Mistley Thorn

There's a distinctly beachcomber-chic feel to this contemporary restaurant with rooms in an 18th-century inn on the Stour Estuary, due perhaps to the Californian heritage of chef-patron Sherri Singleton. The bistro-style dining room has a jaunty, open-skies look with a terracotta tiled floor, bare timbers, cornflower-blue-painted tongue-and-groove walls, basket weave chairs and plenty of nods to the watery location. The menu majors in fresh local fish and seafood done well, but there is also plenty of meaty interest, with an evident fondness for chargrilling. Given the location, it makes sense to kick of with unadorned Mersea rock oysters, or there might be day-boat squid, chargrilled a la plancha, and served with chilli, garlic, lemon oil and herbs. Main course could see roast skate wing teamed with salsa verde and hand-cut fries, while duck shepherd's pie with parsnip mash and roasted vegetables might catch a carnivore's eye. To finish, the tart of the day might be plum and almond, served with ginger ice cream.