Sweet Mandarin

Occupying a prominent glass-fronted corner site, its décor a mix of the traditional and more modern (with flashes of the customary red in napkins, lanterns and so on), Sweet Mandarin is owned and run by three sisters who aim to produce home-style 'fresh, healthy and authentic' Chinese food. As well as the classics, the menu has some more unusual dishes, quality ingredients are used, and the cooking is noted for its clear flavours. Start with salt and pepper squid (beautifully tender with a spicy kick), or aromatic crispy duck, and go on to claypot chicken, beef with sweet peppers and black beans, or wambamboo (strips of pork with bamboo shoots and mushrooms). Seafood gets good treatment - sizzling scallops, sweet-and-sour fish, for instance - a Malaysian influence is brought to some dishes, and incidentals like rice and noodles get the thumbs up.