The Talbot Hotel

The Talbot is a foursquare Yorkshire house that has been in the Naylor-Leyland family since 1739, and they've looked after it well over the centuries, from the landscaped gardens to the light-toned contemporary elegance with which today's hotel is furnished. If localism is a virtue in food sourcing, it's surely all the more so in the provenance of the chef himself, and James Martin was born in Malton, so has Yorkshire blood and Yorkshire pride flowing through him. The style of cooking he delivers (in an executive capacity) rises to the occasion of the smart, sophisticated dining room, where crisp white linen, silver cutlery and formal service play their parts. Modern British thinking is to the fore, with a mix of classical and up-to-date technique brought to bear on the fine ingredients the kitchen has at its disposal. A kind of croquette of lightly smoked kipper starts things off with a flourish, accompanied as it is by seasonal Sand Hutton asparagus and a capery Cambridge butter sauce. That's followed by superb lamb from Terrington, roasted in lavender and hay and partnered by braised shallots, peas and celery cress, with daringly savoury notes creeping into desserts too - dark chocolate fondant with caramel ice cream and black salt praline, for example.