A little more refined than many of the restaurants on the other side of Shaftesbury Avenue, this smart, comfortable Soho Chinese stands out with its blue colour scheme (both inside and out). A long-time favourite, it has a loyal following who come for the friendly, helpful service and reliable cooking. Sticking to traditional themes, the kitchen produces full-on flavours and balanced combinations driven by fresh quality produce with a nod towards leaner healthy cuts and light oils; thus a special of 'fiery' young lamb is served with fresh chillies and lemongrass. Otherwise choose from the lengthy but thoughtfully assembled carte of simple, authentic regional dishes; perhaps anise-scented Gansu duck or a lotus leaf-wrapped 'treasure chest' of seafood (scallops, squid, prawns and fish).