The Ledbury

Trust Notting Hill to have a neighbourhood restaurant of such class and calibre. It is a neighbourhood restaurant inasmuch as it provides the local community with an alternative to heading into the centre of town - there is no need to leave W11 when such refined, intelligent cooking is available on your doorstep - but, conversely, it is a destination restaurant, worth crossing town to visit. Nigel Platts-Martin and Philip Howard's (they also joint-own The Square in Mayfair, see entry) sophisticated venue is simply and stylishly done out, with large glass doors opening onto a small terrace, and the use of natural wood flooring and cream, brown and grey tones creating a modish but understated space. Tables are smartly dressed in white linen and the service is never less than professional without being stand-offish. Australian-born Brett Graham's cooking combines traditional French preparations with plenty of contemporary touches and eye-catching presentations, displaying excellent technical skills and based around first-rate seasonal produce. An amuse-bouche such as beetroot meringue with goat's cheese gets things off to a flying start before a starter of compôte of Berkshire hare, flavoured with juniper, pepper and orange, in a delightful partnership with pumpkin purée and chanterelles. Roast turbot with squid sautéed in sherry, cauliflower and tamarind is a well-balanced main course, and hot chocolate fondant a thrilling finish. There's a good value set lunch, a tasting menu (including a vegetarian version), notable cheese trolley and superb wine list.

5 min walk along Talbot Rd from Portobello Rd, on corner of Talbot and Ledbury Rd
Nearest station: Westbourne Park, Notting Hill Gate

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