The Greenhouse

Tucked away down a Mayfair mews, The Greenhouse - as befits its horticultural name - has its own little garden, which many of its patrons may well hurry by unseeing. Box hedges and bay trees, and little fountains amid the gravel walks, are not exactly what one expects to find in the West End. You might almost wish to spend a little time there on a sunny day, but bustle on towards the entrance anyway. The Greenhouse has occupied an interestingly discreet place at the top table of London gastronomy for many years, with a succession of high-achieving chefs to its name. The décor these days is simple but ingenious, with an uncarpeted floor and avocado-coloured banquettes, one wall being occupied by a filigree arrangement of tree branches to re-emphasise the garden theme. Antonin Bonnet is one of the capital's finer practitioners of contemporary French cuisine, blending techniques that are very much of the moment - espumas, gels and froths - with classical excellence and formal precision. The result, particularly given the breadth of choice on the menus, is an astonishing level of consistency. Look at the array of bright, upstanding flavours that come into play with a slice of foie gras terrine - date and tamarind purée, lemon confit and sweet onion chutney - and yet the central element holds its own. More down-to-earth ingredients are made to sing too, as when a fillet of mackerel is marinated in cider, and accompanied by a 'snow' of horseradish and pickled black radish. Main-course materials are sourced from around the UK's prime locations (beef from Cumbria, lamb from Kent, char from the waters off Dorset), and the must-have Anjou pigeon makes an appearance, along with turnips, pancetta and polenta. Even the vogue for wild marine flora gets a look-in, when sea-buckthorn crops up with a piece of steamed sea bass, the dish robustly deepened with a beef vinaigrette. Desserts tend to the lighter end of the spectrum, perhaps for a strawberry tart with black olive tuile and Thai basil, though the tasting menus have been known to offer 'Snix', an unabashed confection of chocolate, salted caramel and peanuts that will bring out your inner child. A proficient sommelier is on hand to offer any guidance needed through the magisterial wine list.