The Greenhouse

The approach via a delightful urban garden with decking and potted plants sets the tone for this eminently civilised and sophisticated Mayfair mews restaurant. Given both the name of the establishment and the garden it shouldn't be too much of a surprise to find the décor alludes to things botanical. But this is no theme park. The recently refurbished chic dining room exudes serenity with neutral colours and the use of natural textures extending to a feature wall artfully arranged with twigs and branches. Leather chairs and banquettes are in varying tones of green and a glass wall etched with vines separates off a private dining area. Tables are expensively laid and the service is formal without being aloof. Chef Antonin Bonnet's (formerly of Morton's, London) menus fizz with ideas and deliver sophisticated and intelligent modern European food with creative interpretations of French and Mediterranean classics, all based around the highest quality produce from the markets. Duck foie gras terrine with pistachio vinaigrette, cocoa jelly and a warm brioche is technically impressive and superb to eat. Main-courses like Scottish lobster with roasted artichokes, green cardamom and fromage blanc gnocchi, or milk-fed veal rump with bitter praline, parsnip Chantilly and fresh morels are as equally refined. Carré Dubuffet with chocolate biscuit and pralinée makes a fitting finale. Meals include the full range of extras, including outstanding breads (fig and hazelnut among them), canapés and petits fours, plus the team of excellent sommeliers is around to help with the monumental wine list.

Behind Dorchester Hotel just off Hill St
Nearest station: Green Park, Hyde Park, Bond St

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