4 Bryanston Street, LONDON, W1H 7BY
Agnar Sverrisson has been wowing diners with his pin-sharp Scandi-accented modern European cooking for a decade and the venue, next to a smart Georgian hotel just off Oxford Street, indeed has a breezy Scandinavian feel. Whether you go for the à la carte or tasting menus (there are versions available lunch and dinner, and dedicated fish and vegetarian options), or the cracking value of the set lunch menu, expect sharply executed cooking and Sverrisson's trademark lightness of touch. This is down to his avoidance of cream or butter among the savoury courses, and minimal use of sugar in the sweet stuff, plus creativity and talent at balancing flavours and, yes, textures. Nordic influences are clearly at work, notably in the shape of Icelandic cod, lamb and yogurt-like skyr, but the modern European side of things is to the fore, as typified in a starter of Norwegian king crab and black Périgord truffles matched with celeriac and walnuts, or a dish of chargrilled Anjou pigeon with the deftly-judged accompanying flavours of sweetcorn, shallot, bacon popcorn and red wine essence. High-flying technical skill ensures flavours hit the mark in ideas such as Cornish turbot and shellfish with shaved and puréed fennel. For dessert, white chocolate mousse and ice cream appears in an inventive dish with dill and cucumber. This superlative food is backed by a splendid wine list that clearly has a love affair with Burgundies and Rieslings, with expert advice on hand.
Tel: 020 7224 0028
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email
Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 2 wks Xmas, 2 wks Aug, 1 wk Etr
Days closed for lunch: Tue
Cooking type: Modern European
Chef: Agnar Sverrisson
Number of seats: 52
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Vegetarian meals available.
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £29.90
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.