Terroirs

Head to the ground floor, which takes its inspiration from Parisian wine bars, and have a glass of something good with a plate of charcuterie (perhaps pork and pistachio terrine), or one of the plats du jour (rump of lamb with cime di rapa and anchovies) - or spread out at one of the tables downstairs. Either way, the inspiration is the cooking of a provincial grand-mère, with ideas pulled in from the Mediterranean and even further afield: lamb kofta, for instance, with the punch of harissa softened by mint and yoghurt, a careful balance of heat and fragrance. Dishes are carefully considered so the integrity of each ingredient is clear. A salad of beetroot, lentils and ricotta is a lovely blend of flavours, at the same time earthy and delicate. Equally impressive is the stronger taste of braised oxtail with gnocchi, while main courses may take in full-on cassoulet, or cod fillet with monk's beard and brown shrimps. Puddings are appreciated for their simplicity, among them perhaps rhubarb tarte fine with custard, or rich chocolate pot.