Sketch (Lecture Room & Library)

The brainchild of restaurateur Mourad Mazouz and French super-chef Pierre Gagnaire, Sketch is best described as unique. Often overused, the word is perhaps not enough by itself to describe quite how quirky, bold and distinctive this place actually is. But do not think for a moment that this is a case of style over substance, for although there is a great deal of style, it is matched by some phenomenal cooking. The former RIBA building just off Regent Street does not give any impression from the outside of what lies within. The doormen give a clue that this is not your everyday restaurant. On the ground floor there's the Gallery brasserie, which throbs with life and art-deco style (see entry), plus the cool Parlour (tea room by day, hyper-trendy bar by night - see entry) and The Glade bar with its woodland theme, and the East Bar where you can sip on a pre-dinner cocktail. The fine-dining Lecture Room & Library - holder of a full set of AA Rosettes - is on the first floor, forming two parts of the same space, and artfully and ostentatiously decorated in shades of orange, vibrant pinks and yellows, with walls of studded leather, ornately plastered high ceilings and regularly changing works of art. Tables are roomy, well-spaced and dressed to thrill. The service team earn their money helping customers through the menu, which at first glance (and second) warrants clarification. The menu bears the stamp of the inventive flair of its consultant chef, delivering a range of modern French dishes (if they can be classified at all) that are visually stunning, technically brilliant and hit the mark with their remarkable flavours and textures. Dishes are made up of a number of elements, presentation is quite stunning, and there's a bit of drama along the way. 'Perfume of the Earth' is a first course consisting of essentially five small tasting dishes, including cocotte of vegetables with a foie gras soup, and some smoking hay in a small basket giving off the aroma of orange peel and bay. That's just one of the five. Among main courses is Challans duck, the fillet flavoured with cinnamon and cumin, served alongside sautéed crosnes and salsify, Sologne stuffing on toast (foie gras), kimchi and lamb's lettuce, and finally a pear sorbet and Beaujolais jelly - a stunning dish of harmonious flavours and textures. For dessert, what could be better than the Pierre Gagnaire Grand Dessert? Perhaps the Chocolate Puddle, which is simply stunning to look at and provides a chocolate hit to satisfy Willy Wonka himself. The wine list is quite a piece of work, too.