Sketch (Lecture Room & Library)

If you're a first timer, taking a look at the website might prepare you for what is to come; you'll find it quirky, charming (hopefully), wildly creative and just a little over the top (definitely). Do not think for a minute, though, that this individuality and playfulness means this is not a serious player in the London dining scene - it is, with knobs on. It all looks so 'normal' from the outside - a fine example of a London townhouse that could be an insurance brokers; the presence of a doorman might suggest a private club, and, indeed, membership certainly has its advantages. It was in fact once the London HQ of Christian Dior. Sketch is a collaboration between Algerian-born restaurateur Mourad Mazouz and French super-chef Pierre Gagnaire, describing itself as a 'destination place for food, art and music' and it is far from 'normal' on the inside. For a start, there is an abundance of options over the two floors, each space individually designed with flamboyance and an eye for the iconic style statements of the last century. There's the Gallery brasserie (bursting with art deco style), the cool Parlour tea room by day, hyper-trendy bar by night, while The Glade focuses on the healthy side of life. The fine-dining Lecture Room and Library upstairs - two parts of the same space - is elegantly decorated in shades of orange, with ivory walls of studded leather and ornately plastered high ceilings, while thick-piled, brightly coloured carpets and long dangling lampshades give it a somewhat Middle Eastern feel. Sit on feather-cushioned armchairs at well-spaced tables and marvel at the professional and informed service (they need to be, to help you through the menu). Head chef Pascal Sanchez successfully produces a menu that bears the hallmark of the creative flair of consultant Pierre Gagnaire, delivering a range of dishes that dazzle with their technical proficiency, hit the mark with their remarkable flavours and textures and delight with their eye-catching presentations. It is modern French cooking at its best. There's a Gourmet Rapide Lunch which constitutes pretty good value at this level, but, otherwise, the prices on the carte and tasting menu are high. That's H.I.G.H. The sheer complexity of the dishes is revealed in descriptions that last as long as some menus do, but what arrives from the kitchen delivers at every level. 'Seaweed' is a black pancake filled with top-notch seafood, served with an abundance of delights including a dulce and wakame spicy broth and a shellfish custard with cuttlefish and nori seaweed. Follow that with 'Pig' - a rack of Baillet mountain pork roasted in sage with capucine capers, which comes with, amongst other things, a beetroot galette with maple syrup. An experience to be remembered for all the right reasons.

4 mins walk from Oxford Circus tube station, take exit 3, down Regent St. Conduit St 4th on right
Nearest station: Oxford Circus

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