Sketch (Lecture Room & Library)

Remarkably unassuming from outside, with its white-shuttered windows and iron railings, the un-savvy might easily walk on by, save for the evening doorman outside to catch the attention. Once inside though, this one-time HQ of Christian Dior comes brimful of surprises, outrageous flamboyancy and refinement. A collaboration between Algerian-born Mourad Mazouz and French super-chef Pierre Gagnaire that offers a multi-level food-based extravaganza, which includes the vibrant, ground-floor Gallery brasserie (opulent, exciting and bursting with signature art deco), plus the cool Parlour tea room by day, hyper-trendy bar by night. The fine-dining Lecture Room and Library upstairs - two parts of the same space (the Dining Room was the original Dior couture room) - is elegantly decorated in shades of orange, with ivory walls of studded leather and ornately plastered high ceilings, while thick-piled, brightly coloured carpets and long dangling lampshades cut a somewhat Middle Eastern edge. Well-spaced tables with crisp white linen and feather-cushioned armchairs - in purple and crimson - add comfort, while service is professional, attentive and necessarily knowledgeable of the elaborate dish compositions, and there's also a small lounge to enjoy the champagne trolley. Dishes bear the unmistakable creative genius of consultant Pierre Gagnaire's distinctive culinary style (delivered here by head chef and Gagnaire protégé, Pascal Sanchez); it's stunning, exciting, unmistakably innovative and technically superb. The very best quality fresh produce is transformed into an enormous range of textures and flavour sensations, ensuring a surprise at each turn. It's complex and deeply French, like the signature starter 'Langoustines Addressed in Five Ways', perhaps a main course of Sole (its series of elements including sole cooked meunière style/a sauce of champagne/onion and pink grapefruit marmalade, pear and hazelnut/black venere rice in a green crab bisque/and cucumber and chervil), while to finish, perhaps another signature offering 'Pierre Gagnaire Grand Desserts' which arrives as a combination of five miniatures. So dig deep into the pockets and be prepared to be wowed by the groundbreaking experience and sheer theatre of the place. (Note, the wallet-friendly 'Gourmet Rapid Lunch' offers fine value at this level.)

4 mins walk from Oxford Circus tube station, take exit 3, down Regent St. Conduit St 4th on right
Nearest station: Oxford Circus

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