Roux at Parliament Square

Just a short step from the Houses of Parliament, the latest addition to the Roux family's empire is also the latest hot ticket for MPs to add - quite legitimately, of course - to their expenses claims. This restaurant steps into exciting contemporary territory, not just in the tasteful modern art and furnishings of the interior décor, but more importantly in the food, which is poised elegantly and compellingly between the old and new worlds. Concise menus - six courses at each stage, or three in the case of the set-price lunch - show a clearly-focused kitchen (overseen by Michel Roux Jnr) cooking with the sort of awe-inspiring technique that delivers turbocharged flavours and vibrant textural contrasts. Lunch starts with a masterful combination of slow-cooked veal breast with caramelised veal sweetbread, pointed up by bitter chocolate and pickled fennel. Next up, a generous, ingenious and imaginative Anjou pigeon and foie gras 'Kiev' teamed with morels and Madeira sauce. At dessert stage, only the finest Valrhona manjari chocolate will do as the basis of a silky mousse, perfumed with fresh coriander and lime zest and served with a peanut and caramelised banana parfait. Nor is austerity a word that springs readily to mind when contemplating the superb Roux-approved wine list and menu of pricey bubblies, Armagnacs, Cognacs and eaux de vie.