Restaurant Gordon Ramsay

Still the flagship of the Ramsay empire despite a global expansion that has taken in Melbourne, LA and Tokyo amongst others, the Royal Hospital Road address is where it all began back in 1998. There has been a lot of water under the bridge in that time, but in Chelsea, as a swan might seemingly glide effortlessly along the Thames, fabulous French food in the Ramsay tradition is turned out by Clare Smyth and her team. There's an air of exclusivity to the place - including the prices - with little attempt made to seduce with affectation or showboating. There is justified confidence in the quality of the product, matched by the charming service team lead by maître d' Jean-Claude Breton. The food is not the most exciting in London, it will not provoke debate, or play tricks with your palate, but it is deeply satisfying, refined, intelligent stuff. Sautéed foie gras with roasted veal sweetbreads, cabernet sauvignon vinegar and almond velouté shows this to be a kitchen that is drawn to luxury ingredients and compelling flavour combinations. Thus a ravioli of lobster, langoustine and salmon is poached in a light bisque and finished with a lemongrass and chervil velouté. Loin of wild highland venison is served with truffle-braised celery, roasted Williams pear and smoked pork belly in a well-judged main course, while roasted fillets of John Dory comes with chorizo-spiked couscous, baby squid, artichoke and spiced tomato jus. Caramelised tarte Tatin is a treat in store for two, or go solo with Granny Smith parfait with blackberry foam, honeycomb and cider sorbet. The wine list contains bins from the world's top producers with accordant prices. The set lunch is a good bet relatively speaking, while the menu prestige is an indulgently appealing choice if you want to push the boat out.