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Restaurant Gordon Ramsay

68 Royal Hospital Road, LONDON, SW3 4HP

4 rosettes

From the beginning of 2013 Clare Smyth became chef-patron of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, which is testament to her abilities and Gordon Ramsay's willingness to let his protégés shine. She's been head chef since 2007 and now she's a business partner. Royal Hospital Road remains the flagship of the Ramsay brand, and if ever a chef was a brand, it is he. Ramsay is global, with nearly a dozen addresses in the USA alone, and the same sort of number in London. A busy man, then, and dependent on his most trusted lieutenants. This is where the road to global domination began, back in 1998, and it remains a bastion of Ramsay's style of refined, modern French cooking. Ramsay never sought to sink the ship of haute cuisine, happy instead to do it up until it has never looked so good, and keep the wind in its sails. And as the restaurant enters a new era, there's been a refurbishment to mark the new beginning, a subtle art-deco styling that remains soothingly muted and classy. There are several stand-out elements to a visit to Royal Hospital Road. Firstly, the service is supremely good: it's the kind of place where things happen just before your brain picks up they need attending to - they're one step ahead. Secondly, the quality of the produce: everything is staggeringly good, super-fresh, the best of the best. And thirdly, the cooking is as near perfect as it is possible to get (hence the accolades) and it all looks absolutely beautiful. A starter of pan-fried Isle of Skye scallops, for example, with heritage apples, walnuts, celery and cider emulsion is perfectly judged, the shellfish as fresh as can be and the timing of the cooking spot on. Another starter sees sautéed foie gras in the triumphant company of roasted veal sweetbreads, cabernet sauvignon vinegar and an almond velouté. Next up, main-course suckling pig comes as crisp and succulent belly, roasted loin and spiced shoulder, or go for Isle of Gigha halibut in the company of king crab, cauliflower couscous, finger lime and ras el hanout-infused broth. Desserts are no less impressive, creative and adroitly executed: the smoked chocolate cigar, for example, with blood orange and cardamom ice cream, or the classic tarte Tatin with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. The wine list contains some amazing stuff from the world's top producers, with prices to make your eyes water, but does not sideline those who want to drink on a more financially accessible level.

Further information

Tel: 020 7352 4441
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sat-Sun
Dates closed: 1 wk Xmas

Restaurant information

Cooking type: French, European
Chef: Gordon Ramsay, Clare Smyth
Number of seats: 45
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 
 
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Nearest station: Sloane Square

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