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Portland

113 Great Portland Street, LONDON, W1W 6QQ

3 rosettes

Just up the road from the BBC, new-kid-on-the-block Portland has been making headlines of its own with its on-cue vision of new-Brit cuisine, scoring high with precision cooking, unstuffy, spot-on service and understated good looks. On first impression, Portland feels more neighbourhood gaff than city-slicker, with its small pared-back interior of wooden tables and chairs, plain white walls, dangling retro-like Edison lighting, and a fast tempo backing track. Upfront, the in-vogue counter and high stalls look out streetwise, while at the back, the must-have open kitchen fires up the culinary action. The concise menu brims with innovation and a genuine sense of seasonality. Vibrant small snack plates are a fantastic prelude and might include the lightest, flavour-packed mini white truffle and gruyere macaroons, or fabulously succulent big-mouthed barbecue smoked eel pared with refreshing radish and cultured Guernsey cream. There's modern gloss to the presentation, with skilled balance to dishes alongside texture and colour interest, as in a starter of perfectly timed salsify doused in 'kicking' Comté shavings and 'crispy' air-dried Mangalitsa pig. At mains, Denham Estate deer might come dotted with 'sweet' elderberry to balance salt-baked celeriac and 'crisp' buckwheat. The equally stimulating wine list delivers a top choice by glass, including all of its 'Special' wines.

Further information

Tel: 020 7436 3261
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email

Open/closed

Days closed: Sun
Dates closed: 23 Dec-3 Jan

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Merlin Labron-Johnson
Number of seats: 36
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £14.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Nearest station: Oxford Circus

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