With its impeccable address at the top of Marylebone High Street (above Terence Conran's store), and a short stroll to Regent's Park, the Orrery is a class act. Named after a mechanical model of our solar system, the long, narrow dining room is smart in an understated way, flooded by light from large arched windows and roof skylights, with a glass wine 'cellar' at one end and intimate bar at the other. The service team is polished and professional, including a sommelier to give you the low-down on the corking wine list. The modern, French-inspired cooking shows a light and deceptively simple touch, albeit with a good degree of refinement, and underpinned by classical foundations. Wild sea bass comes with aubergine caviar, confit fennel and tomato butter, while tournedos Rossini is served with celeriac purée and sauce Périgourdine. A roof terrace and street-level Epicerie add to the appeal.