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20-22 Queen Street, LONDON, W1J 5PP

4 rosettes

The namesake Venetian glass features as a specially-commissioned chandelier, a statement from the off, perhaps, that this restaurant is all about Italian refinement. Angela Hartnett is a flag-bearer for upscale Italian dining in London these days, with perhaps only a few other places getting anywhere near. The Mayfair location is reflected in the upscale decor (and the prices, you might say, although the lunch is very good value at this level), with white leather seats, crisp linen on the tables, and funky, contemporary lights around an atrium. There's a swanky chef's table, too. The menu is not entirely Italian in focus, with an evident broader modern European influence, but Italian ingredients and preparations are very much on show. Service is slick and entirely on the ball. The bread and all the little extras hit the mark, with grissini and focaccia flying the flag for the motherland. Roasted scallops with curried parsnip purée, apple chutney and macadamia nuts is a first course with decidedly contemporary credentials, the timing spot on, the flavours deftly handled. Another starter featuring a purée partners a fine apple and shallot version with some roasted sweetbreads, served with toasted walnuts. It might be a mistake to skip pasta, with the signature pumpkin tortelli with sage butter and crushed amaretti on offer, or pheasant agnolotti with shallot purée and rosemary. When it comes to main courses, the dilemma is meat or fish, with sea bass with baby artichokes, smoked cod's roe and confit lemon competing with fillet of Cumbrian beef in a broth with curly kale, bone marrow and Jerusalem artichoke. Desserts are equally well-made and appealing, with a feel-good choice of caramelised Amalfi lemon tart sitting alongside pistachio soufflé with a hot chocolate sauce. The set lunch menu doesn't lack for impact either, kicking off with something like rabbit and Swiss chard tortelli with marjoram butter and pancetta, before a main of Cornish sole with baby gnocchi, puntarelle and wild mushrooms, finishing with a vanilla rice pudding with Yorkshire rhubarb. The wine list, like the food, is Italian-ish, with a good showing from France.

Further information

Tel: 020 7495 1127
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Days closed: Sun
Dates closed: 25-26 Dec

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern European, Italian influence
Chef: Diego Cardoso
Number of seats: 46
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

Murano, London w1


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Nearest station: Green Park

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