20-22 Queen Street, LONDON, W1J 5PP
Angela Harnett's early culinary inspiration came from her Italian grandmother and aunties, while it was her time in Gordon Ramsay's empire during its heyday where she developed her professional skills. These days she's one of the UK's foremost chefs. At this Mayfair address, Hartnett's style of Italian-inspired food is up for grabs, and female chef Pip Lacey heads up the brigade. It's a luxurious space, but subtle and refined, with the namesake Murano glass making an appearance in arty, modern chandeliers. This kitchen delivers an impressive crab ravioli with crystal clear tomato water, peas and broad beans, plus similarly remarkable more Pan-European dishes such as scallops with parsnip purée and scallop velouté. The ingredients are out of the top drawer. There's plenty of creativity on show, too, such as the praline yogurt that accompanies crispy pork belly with white coco beans and plums. When it comes to pasta, they really hit the mark: macaroni with chestnuts, brown shrimps and clams, for example, is a stunning combination. Among fishy options, hake arrives with octopus carpaccio and paprika butter, and turbot in luxe partnership with langoustines. For dessert, the caramelised Amalfi lemon tart is an exemplary version of a classic, or go for a sexed up chocolate brownie with mandarin sorbet, candied kumquats and salted caramel ice cream. The wine list focuses on Italy while not disregarding the rest of the world, and has particularly interesting organic and biodynamic options.
Tel: 020 7495 1127
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Days closed: Sun
Dates closed: Xmas
Cooking type: Modern European, Italian influence
Chef: Angela Hartnett, Pip Lacey
Number of seats: 46
Accessible for wheelchairs.