Murano

Angela Hartnett's Italian heritage imbues her cooking with a Mediterranean lustre that is hard to resist. She worked with Gordon Ramsay since the Aubergine days, but went her own way at the end of 2010, with Murano now annexed from the Ramsay group. The eponymous glass remains, of course, used to good effect in specially commissioned blown glasswork light fittings, and the room maintains its chic, confidently understated neutrality. The kitchen is headed up by Diego Cardoso. Start perhaps with scallops partnered with a broad bean purée, apple and pata negra, or hand-rolled pappardelle enriched with lamb, lemon confit, olives and mint. Next up, roasted breast of pigeon with chicory, apple vinaigrette and romesco sauce, or halibut with glazed chicken wings and hazelnut velouté. These are refined dishes but clearly focused, full of alluring flavours and based on tip-top produce. A fabulously straightforward risotto might be white onion, parmigiano reggiano and truffle vinaigrette, and for dessert, expect the likes of a creative passionfruit tart with pine nut pastry and rice ice cream, or pannacotta with black olives and blood orange jelly. The presence of a tasting menu and chef's table matches contemporary expectations. The excellent wine list has much of interest from Italy but does not ignore the rest of the wine-growing world.