Locanda Locatelli

From the grissini to the espresso, Giorgio Locatelli's restaurant a couple of blocks behind Selfridges is effortlessly confident. Everything produced by the kitchen suggests a restaurant firing on all cylinders and it is hard to envisage a better Italian restaurant in the United Kingdom. The outside of the building is all straight lines and clean edges, with blinds keeping the privacy of those within. The David Collins' designed décor is smart, slick in places - glass dividers allow a bit of personal space - yet comfortable in a retro sort of way. Cream banquette seating, concave mirrors and modern art on the grained wood walls add a touch of glamour as do the clientele, who head to this part of town for the Northern Italian cooking. The menu is structured in the Italian way, so pasta comes between antipasti and main course, although sticking to three courses is not frowned upon, and the use of top quality produce is evident throughout. Start with broad bean and ewe's cheese salad or another of pan-fried scallops with saffron vinaigrette before the pasta course, oxtail ravioli, perhaps, or gnocchi with goat's cheese and black truffle. The ideas are based on trusted combinations, the flavours allowed to shine, and the craftsmanship considerable. Next up is the fish or meat course, so roasted turbot with cherry tomatoes and green olives competes with confit rabbit legs with polenta and radicchio trevisano. The kitchen is not so rarefied as to ignore a classic such as tiramisù at dessert, or else there is carnaroli rice and lemon soufflé or a selection of Italian cheeses. The excellent wine list is particularly strong on Tuscany and Piedmont, while service is memorably charming, efficient and passionate.

Opposite Marylebone police station
Nearest station: Marble Arch

Find your way with AA atlases, books and maps
Plan a route to this location »  Locanda Locatelli, London w1