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Locanda Locatelli

8 Seymour Street, LONDON, W1H 7JZ

3 rosettes

If your only experience of the celeb chef's work is watching his Italophile foodie travelogues on the telly, then it's worth splashing out to bag a table in his glossy West End venue. It is only with tongue firmly in cheek that anyone could call this ultra-chic Mayfair temple of the contemporary Italian culinary idiom a simple 'locanda': just north of Oxford Street, at the side of the Hyatt Regency Churchill Hotel, this is a seriously A-list hangout with a designer interior courtesy of David Collins. There are burnished parquet floors, textured wooden walls, beige leather bucket chairs, and booths divided by etched glass screens to give a veil of intimacy. The front-of-house team are a stand-out crew too, slickly and confidently working the floor, and always ready to chat intelligently about the food and wine. Coming from a well-established cooking dynasty, Locatelli himself has la cucina in his veins and a deeply-felt instinct for the low-intervention preparations that let the stunning quality of the ingredients take centre stage. The result is benchmark Italian food of verve and style that often amazes with its sheer simplicity. It all starts off on the right foot with really good cheese grissini to nibble, and a basket of first-class breads to dip into fantastic extra virgin olive oil. A simple salad of deep-fried calf's foot with mustard fruit arrives perfectly dressed, raising lowly peasant cooking to another level. Don't be tempted to skip the pasta course when there's oxtail ravioli, or risotto with Barolo wine and Castelmagno cheese, to be had. Main courses deliver the likes of roast brill with wild chicory, tomato and white beans, or roast rabbit leg with Parma ham, polenta and radicchio. Desserts embrace a tasting of gold-standard Amedei chocolate - which is as technically tricksy as Locatelli's food ever gets - or an Amalfi lemon take on Eton Mess. The head-spinning wine list is an in-depth exploration of Serie A Italian producers, with heaps of choice by the glass.

Further information

Tel: 020 7935 9088
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Dates closed: Xmas, BHs

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Italian
Chef: Giorgio Locatelli
Number of seats: 70
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £18.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Nearest station: Marble Arch

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