Le Comptoir Gascon

When only the honest-to-goodness, garlic-and-goose-fat delights of traditional French cooking will do, this relaxed bistro-deli opposite Smithfield should hit the spot. Specialising in the gutsy, peasant food of southwest France, main courses divide into a section dealing with all things duck, ranging from confit to magret to cassoulet, and three themed categories: Terre could offer daube of ox cheeks with glazed turnips, while Mer might be represented by squid brandade with braised celery and ink sauce. The vegetarian section - Végétal - offers the likes of piperade, a Basque dish of eggs scrambled with peppers, tomatoes, onions and garlic. The deli is a one-stop shop to load up with those gourmet essentials for the larder.