L'Autre Pied

L'Autre Pied may be pitched at a less formal level than it's revered Fitzrovia sister, Pied à Terre, but this classy act in Marylebone village is no Cinderella. At the helm is youthful head chef Marcus Eaves, who worked with Shane Osborn at the original Pied, and brings a full head of creativity and enthusiasm to the task in hand. With such a reputation to live up to and high expectations, the mood is set with a pleasant, unbuttoned formality: claret and chocolate leather banquettes combine with richly-grained dark-wood tables, hand-painted silk wallpapers, and backlit glass screens with curlicued images of flowers and spices casting an emerald sheen. The modern European cooking is highly polished - not that you'd know from the menu, whose tight-lipped descriptions hide the arsenal of techniques deployed in its purées, emulsions, nages and foams. It's all executed with a masterly touch: luxury ingredients slum it with peasant produce in harmonious dishes of full-on flavour. An open ravioli of peas, broad beans and baby gem lettuce is an exquisite starter, all flavours singing loud and clear. Next up, comes slow-cooked breast of lamb with glazed baby carrots, tarragon pommes purées and thyme jus - a rustic dish, maybe, but buffed up with refined presentation. Dessert is another hit: a tarte fine of mango, brought to table simply with mango sorbet and cream.

Nearest station: Bond St

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