L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Some people can't just slip quietly into early retirement. After being crowned with every accolade under the gastronomic sun, legendary French über-chef Joël Robuchon returned with his 'Atelier' concept to take on the restaurant world again. By rolling out the Atelier stable in the glitz of Paris, Tokyo, New York and Monaco, M Robuchon clearly aims for high-profile glamour. And the London operation serves up self-conscious glamour in large portions; sleek staff clad in designer black like Bond-villain henchpersons lurk in a dimly-lit, futuristic crimson and black Yakuza-chic lair of lacquer, glass and black granite on the ground-floor. Here, the meaning of Atelier - 'workshop' - becomes apparent: high stools at the counter are ringside seats for watching the chefs at work in an open kitchen, turning out innovative miniature tasting dishes of intensely-flavoured, classically-prepared food. The first floor dining room, La Cuisine, is a brighter space sporting a monochrome chequerboard theme and is the place to eat if you're happier with the traditional three-course format (although you can do this on the ground floor too). Food here is deeply rooted in French classics, despite obvious inspiration drawn from Spain and Japan, so expect luxury ingredients, first-class produce, and combinations that veer from simple and classic to complex and innovative. Crabmeat and lobster jelly are served simply with shallots and flat parsley; a superbly-cooked veal sweetbread sits on a bed of Savoy cabbage, pine kernel, almond and pistachio. Don't skip dessert - a passionfruit soufflé with hazelnut ice cream and dried fruit hits another high note.

Left off Cambridge Circus & Shaftesbury Av
Nearest station: Leicester Square/Covent Garden

Find your way with AA atlases, books and maps
Plan a route to this location »  L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, London wc2