La Collina

At La Collina the cooking is as authentic as anyone could reasonably ask for, while amiable Italian staff add an extra layer of Latin feel to this smart neighbourhood venue. A recent refurb has kept the pared-back interior at the top of its game with the addition of a new bar; there's a pleasing simplicity to the place - whitewashed walls, stripped wood floors - which spreads itself through a ground-floor room and a pint-sized basement where you can watch the culinary action in the open kitchen. The homespun regional Italian cooking produces quality, ingredient-led dishes with the odd modern interjection. Typical starters run to salt cod with pepper and anchovy sauce, then look to the specials for home-made ravioli stuffed with pheasant and partridge, served with game jus. On the carte might be salt-baked sea bass with spinach, or chicken paillard with salad and roast potatoes. The all-Italian wines add to the appeal.