Kensington Place

If you weren't a regular at this seminal brasserie in the old days, then you might wonder what all the fuss was about. Its once avant-garde looks are now pretty mainstream, and the brasserie-format menu has a familiar ring. KP though has the same relaxed vibe, with its large glass windows giving views over life on Kensington Church Street, and with its wood-block flooring, close-set tables, well designed chairs and hard-edged, high decibel atmosphere, there's more than a flavour of the old days remaining. The kitchen pleases its devotees with seasonal, fixed-priced menus that keep things simple and fresh with a light modern touch. Start with confit salmon with ratte potatoes, chorizo and salsa verde, moving on to Denham Estate bavette steak with triple-cut chips and sauce Choron. Finish with lemon trifle or British and Irish cheeses.