Luxury is the name of the game at this top-end Mayfair Chinese. Expect sophisticated, glossy, modern oriental design spread across two floors and charmingly respectful service. You'll find mirrored or decorated pillars, granite flooring, modern lighting and shades of gold, red and silver throughout; white linen on the tables accentuates the plush oriental accent. The kitchen delivers a wide-ranging choice of regional dishes, including classy renditions of classics (Peking duck etc.) to more innovative interpretations and specialities (think ostrich pan-fried with three chillies), to not-to-be-missed desserts (Peranaka mango cake, perhaps). Ingredients are top-notch, cooking is precise and presentation on the creative side. The atmosphere is pretty upmarket and prices duly oblige, though the fixed-price lunch offers terrific value in the scheme of things.