Hibiscus

Just off Regent Street, where the equanimity of Mayfair meets the hustle of West End shopping, is a restaurant that shines like a beacon, lighting up the London dining scene with its poise and passion. Hibiscus is Claude Bosi's gaff, where six days a week he cooks up a storm (alongside head chef Marcus McGuinness), delivering food grounded in French classical cooking, based on superb ingredients from artisan producers, and displaying a rare talent for innovation and imagination. It all takes place on a relatively small scale (some 45 covers) in a room with well-spaced tables, colours chosen from the neutral and natural palette, alongside a few lavish touches such as the opulent flower display and shimmering central chandelier. It is an understated and refined space. When highly developed technical skills combine with a creative mind great things are possible, and so it is in a first course terrine of foie gras with green mango and aloe vera compôte, the flavours balanced to perfection, the acidity finely tuned. Raviolo of hen's egg yolk is another first course showing a lightness of touch in the kitchen, topped with winter truffles and sitting on a smooth smoked potato purée, the egg running free on contact with the stainless steel. Next up, blade of Herefordshire beef has been braised for 24 hours and comes with pickled cucumber, soba noodles, and brown shrimp sauce, or there night be barbecued English kid with garlic and lemon purée, roast white asparagus and glazed winkles. There is no less innovation and culinary fireworks at dessert stage: how about dark chocolate tart with white miso ice cream and a swipe of creamy goats' cheese? Those flavours are judged to a tee. The fixed-price lunch is pretty good value all things considered, and the service team are well drilled and on the ball.