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Hibiscus

29 Maddox Street, Mayfair, LONDON, W1S 2PA

5 rosettes

Claude Bosi moved to the UK in the mid-'90s having worked with some stellar French chefs in Paris. French culinary traditions run deep with Monsieur Bosi, with a childhood spent at his parents' restaurant in Lyon. On arrival in Shropshire, first off, it was the UK's lack of appreciation of the nation's superb produce that caught his eye. And he did something about it. To this day, Bosi uses trusted independent suppliers to keep his kitchen fuelled with prime seasonal ingredients, and his menu is based on a thorough appreciation of French classical cooking alongside fabulous creativity. His food is refined, but never over-blown, and flavour is king. When moving to London in 2007, Bosi didn't open up in a fancy hotel, but opted instead for a discreet place in Mayfair, nothing too flash, somewhere rather dignified. A recent refurbishment has resulted in a contemporary and civilised space, with muted tones and modern art. Tables are dressed up in brilliant white cloths, and a statement floral display holds court in the centre of the room. The menu needs a little explaining. First off, lunchtime is terrific value, three choices at each course and even a plat du jour dish available Monday to Friday, in honour, perhaps, of chef's childhood in Lyon. The main menu consists of three options: three, six or eight courses, which is straightforward enough. But what follows depends on what is red-hot that day, and what suppliers have delivered to the door. But fear not, for you are in very safe hands. You will be served artfully constructed dishes that look beautiful to the eye but never lack for punchy flavours. On the lunch menu might be a warm pike quenelle with new season chestnuts and 'quiche Lorraine', with each dish much more than the sum of its parts. Claude Bosi is a chef capable of maximising the impact of every ingredient, bringing together combinations that meld together as a whole while maintaining the integrity of each individual element. The courses on the tasting menus tantalise with brief descriptions that give no clue as to the craft and technical know-how on display: Devonshire crab, Yorkshire venison, Amalfi lemon, each one, though, living long in the memory. It's back to the lunch menu for Scottish partridge with roasted cauliflower, curried capers and raisins, followed by an impressive dessert that combines sweet potato and clementine in a 'cheesecake'. Just as Bosi seeks out the very best ingredients for the table, the wine list gets the same attention to detail, with natural growers to the fore.

Further information

Tel: 020 7629 2999
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 10 days Xmas, New Year

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern French
Chef: Claude Bosi
Number of seats: 48
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 
 
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Nearest station: Oxford Circus, Marble Arch

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