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Galvin La Chapelle

St. Botolph's Hall, 35 Spital Square, LONDON, E1 6DY

3 rosettes

The Galvin brothers have gone on expanding their London restaurant empire without evidently missing a beat. La Chapelle in Spitalfields was the third in the series, so called because it was once the chapel of a Victorian girls' school, St Botolph's. It's possible to feel fairly small huddled on a chocolate-brown banquette, surrounded by marble pillars that stretch on up to the distant ceiling, some thirty metres above you. But while towering magnificence is fine in the decor, it isn't necessarily what you want in the service approach, and fortunately the Chapelle runs on a mix of friendliness and efficiency. Jeff Galvin's menus, in the hands of head chef Zac Whittle, return us to the magnificent with interpretations of French cuisine both classical and moderne. The flirtation with demotic bistro cooking evident in the earliest iterations of the Galvin formula are sustained here. So you could start with a bowl of wild mushroom consommé laced with pearl barley, or a slab of ham hock and foie gras terrine dressed with red onion marmalade, but then an assemblage of warm smoked eel, Alsace bacon and caramelised pineapple catches the eye. At main course, there are inviting compositions of flavours that are simultaneously unusual and yet wholly intuitive, such as Seville orange-glazed sea bream with endive, pine-nuts, capers and raisins, and others that borrow more obviously from current British modes - loin and faggot of Denham venison with pickled red cabbage and a mingled purée of apple and chestnuts. Other culinary traditions are roped in as appropriate - polenta with the guinea-fowl, or couscous, preserved lemon and harissa to suit a pigeon tagine - reminding us that modern French cooking has been as acquisitive as modern British. At close of business, it could be classic Tatin with Normandy crème fraîche, or poached rhubarb with shortbread, ginger crème patissière and pistachios.

Further information

Tel: 020 7299 0400
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Open/closed

Dates closed: 25-26 Dec, 1 Jan
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for dinner: 24 Dec

Restaurant information

Cooking type: French
Chef: Zac Whittle, Jeff Galvin
Number of seats: 110
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Children welcome.
Children's portions.

 

Restaurant price guide

2 Course lunch from: £24.00
3 Course lunch from: £29.00
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £22.50
2 Course dinner from: £24.00
3 Course dinner from: £29.00
Sunday lunch: £29.00-£39.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
Galvin La Chapelle, London e1

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Nearest station: Liverpool Street

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