Galvin La Chapelle

The Victorians knew a thing or two about making a good first impression, and the building that now houses Galvin La Chapelle does not lack for the grand proportions and empire-inspiring scale of late 19th-century architecture. Inside there are marble-clad pillars soaring up to the vaulted ceiling, swagged curtains, tables dressed up to the nines, and a mezzanine level called The Gallery from where you can look down on the other diners. It's a glamorous, classy, buzzy and rather exciting place to eat. As with the other venues run by the Galvin brothers, modern French cooking is the thing, and deftly handled modern French cooking at that, based on excellent ingredients. Roast chestnuts and duck confit are perfect bedfellows in a first-course velouté, or go for a classic Mediterranean fish soup with the regulation accompaniments. Main-course might bring forth a tagine of Bresse pigeon with couscous, aubergine purée and harissa sauce as a reminder that the French were not above a bit of empire building either, or there might be roast fillet of Icelandic cod with crushed ratte potatoes, cavolo nero and roast garlic. To finish, rum baba with crème Chantilly, and blueberry soufflé and coulis with milk ice cream compete with French cheeses from La Fromagerie.