London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, LONDON, W1K 1BE
Restaurants in the sky are common in London these days, with various City venues outdoing each other in reaching for the clouds. The Park Lane Hilton was ahead of the pack in these stakes, its 28th-floor Windows restaurant having long been one of its most seductive features. The eye can never be jaded enough to tire of views like this, with Canary Wharf, the London Eye, Buckingham Palace, the green expanse of Hyde Park and the arch of distant Wembley Stadium all clearly visible. Needless to say, it's worth holding out for a window table. Chris Galvin's continuing residency here, with Korean-born head chef Joo Won (not to be confused with his namesake, the actor) at the stoves, adds all the culinary lustre the place deserves. Start with a little cocktail razzmatazz in the bar, before gliding through to the dining room for some inspired modern European cooking. The vein of high-powered French bistro style originally brought in by Galvin is just still discernible in dishes like the ballotine of foie gras with marinated prunes, orange purée and pain d'épices, and mains such as sea bass with fennel and an oyster in jus gras, but there are excursions further afield these days. A vegetarian opener combines onion bhajis and curried cauliflower purée with a soft-boiled egg in vivid green spinach emulsion, and a Spanish treatment of roast cutlet and crisped brawn of Ibérico pork comes with peppery-hot jus diablo. Desserts keep up the pace by means of dark chocolate fondant with praline and a sorbet of yogurt and dill, or nougat parfait, caramelised banana, Muscovado meringues and black pepper ice cream. Cheeses come from the Bayswater specialist, Buchanan's.
Tel: 020 7208 4021
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Dates closed: BHs, 26 Dec, 9 Apr, 7 May
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for lunch: Sat
Days closed for dinner: Sun, 25 Dec
Cooking type: Modern French
Chef: Joo Won, Chris Galvin
Number of seats: 130
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.