London Hilton on Park Lane, 22 Park Lane, LONDON, W1K 1BE
It's been open for nearly a decade now, but a table in Galvin at Windows is still one of the hottest tickets in town. The view of the capital from the 28th floor of the Park Lane Hilton is enough of a draw in itself, and while the window tables are the prize spots, the restaurant's clever split-level design allows everyone a share of that stunning panorama. Chef-patron Chris Galvin is renowned for his bold, creative take on French haute cuisine, and while he doesn't man the stoves here on a daily basis, newly installed head chef Joo Won is fully versed in the signature style. If you haven't managed to bag a window table in the restaurant, your luck might be in the bar, where spectacular views and equally impressive cocktails go hand in hand. In the restaurant itself, the look is all 1930s glamour, with tables dressed up to the nines, and service that's on the ball whether or not the master, Fred Sirieix (you may have seen him on the telly), is on duty. The cooking eschews butter, cream and rich sauces in favour of clean, vibrant, natural flavours, with seasonality a watchword. Seared Scottish king scallops are timed to perfection to start and matched with succulent slow-cooked pork belly, a sweetcorn puree and an intensely flavoured shellfish reduction, while main-course breast of Landes pigeon comes nicely pink and tender, sitting on a bed of couscous, with an excellent pastilla of the leg meat, finished with blobs of aubergine puree and a harissa jus for an injection of spice. A first-class rum baba with a golden raisin compote and crème fontainebleu (a very creamy cream cheese) might turn up for dessert, or perhaps a multi-dimensional dark chocolate mousse on a crunchy hazelnut and chocolate base, with a flavour-packed griotte cherry sorbet, a pool of saffron anglaise and some thin chocolate and nut wafers. The wine list is well worth a moment or two of your time.
Tel: 020 7208 4021
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email
Dates closed: BHs, 26 Dec, 9 Apr, 7 May
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for lunch: Sat
Days closed for dinner: Sun, 25 Dec
Cooking type: Modern French
Chef: Joo Won, Chris Galvin
Number of seats: 130
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.