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Dabbous

39 Whitfield Street, Fitzrovia, LONDON, W1T 2SF

3 rosettes

The waiting list to get in here has been known to stretch from here to eternity, a sure sign that Ollie Dabbous has his finger on one of the various beating pulses of fashionable London dining. It isn't just that nobody minds the brutalist industrial styling of the interior, where air-con ducts are on show, and behind the metal mesh screens, bare lightbulbs are poised as though for an interrogation; they positively relish it as the mood of the moment. If you want chandeliers, go to the Ritz. In the basement here is Oskar's Bar, where a DJ plays and the cocktails incorporate homemade syrups and infusions. Dabbous's food is spun from gathered wild ingredients, including many not previously thought edible, and culinary technique that is intent on making everything new. Seasonings are thought-provoking from the off, as witness a starter of goose-meat cured with fenugreek, or the glazed pig cheek main that's scented with clover and sage and comes with hispi cabbage. Despite the complicated treatments, there is also an engaging simplicity to the dishes, a difficult trick to pull off. Coddled egg with mushrooms and smoked butter evokes layers of earthy flavour from its humble components, as do the favoured broths in which main ingredients repose - squid, radishes and toasted buckwheat, or cod with wild garlic and seaside herbs. Japanese notes are struck for a main dish of barbecued pigeon (or celeriac and hazelnuts in the veggie version) with miso quince, while desserts are often imbued with botanical aromatics, such as the rose petals, fennel pollen and sorrel that come with yogurt sorbet. Warm beer cake with clotted cream is the manly alternative.

Further information

Tel: 020 7323 1544
Please quote 'The AA'.
Send an email

Open/closed

Days closed: Sun
Dates closed: 1 wk Etr, 2 wks Aug, 1 wk Xmas

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Ollie Dabbous
Number of seats: 36
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Steps for wheelchair: 1
Disabled toilets.

 
 
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Nearest station: Goodge St

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