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Dabbous

39 Whitfield Street, Fitzrovia, LONDON, W1T 2SF

3 rosettes

Dabbous went down a storm when it opened its doors in 2012, as much for its industrial-chic design as anything: all bare brick and concrete, metal grille, exposed pipes and even unshaded light bulbs dangling on bare wires. Entirely in keeping, staff come across as cool and trendy. Central to the cooking style are fresh, fresh herbs, fruit and vegetables, and foraged wild foods. The eponymous Ollie Dabbous eschews the classical school's reliance on dairy produce for sauces and garnishes and has an unfailing grasp of successful combinations, turning out some highly original dishes. A starter of avocado, basil and almonds in chilled fig leaf broth is a triumph of accurate flavours, and might be followed by tender barbecued octopus with a contrasting violet and mustard emulsion and Jerusalem artichokes. Smoked halibut with pickled celeriac sounds positively run of the mill in comparison, but main-course offerings after it soon induce the surprise factor: cod wrapped in wood shavings with honey and turnip dressing, say, or roast goose with birch sap and white miso. Dishes are remarkable for their palate-pleasing clean flavours and attractive rustic presentation, and staff are happy to explain any unfamiliar items: kinome, for instance, in a main course of braised veal cheek with toasted spelt and celery. Seeded bread is served in a brown-paper bag, and puddings make an impact in the form of hot cashew nut butter with ginger beer and lime, served in a tankard, or rhubarb with lavender and ice lettuce, while the savoury of tooth could opt for truffled cheese on toast.

Further information

Tel: 020 7323 1544
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 1 wk Etr, 2 wks Aug, 3 wks Xmas

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Ollie Dabbous

 
 
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Nearest station: Goodge Street

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