Clos Maggiore

Much is made of the romantic appeal of this place tucked away from the hustle-and-bustle of nearby Covent Garden. The blossom-filled courtyard is certainly a magical setting, with its stone floor, finely dressed tables and a fully retractable roof allowing the blue sky or twinkling stars to play a part (this is central London so it is more likely to be lights from a passing aeroplane, but what the hell). It is - as intended - reminiscent of a stylish country inn in Provence or Tuscany, even if you're in the main dining room and not in the courtyard. A roaring log fire adds a new cosy dimension to the place when lit in the cold months. Marcellin Marc's modern French cooking fits the location to a tee, bringing refined technique and high quality, carefully-sourced produce into play. Start with chargrilled scallops with Jerusalem artichoke and winter truffle, or slow-cooked octopus salad 'Spanish style'. There are lots of good non-meat options, and there's even a vegetarian tasting menu in support of the seasonal version. Next up, perhaps caramelised honey-glazed Gressingham duck breast with roasted red plums, endive meunière and ruby port sauce. To finish, Valrhona white and milk chocolate parfait, or spiced golden pineapple and Alphonse mango salad will see you right. There are pre- and post-theatre menus and the wine list is worth exploring, with a particularly good choice by the glass.