China Tang at The Dorchester

The long-running Chinese restaurant at the Dorchester became the last word in opulence when it was reconfigured by Sir David Tang, founder of the China Clubs empire that extends over Hong Kong, Beijing and Singapore. Here the exquisite contemporary east Asian design is set off with a wealth of traditional and modern Chinese artworks and tableaux of pastel-hued fish, all thrown into relief against the Dorchester's art-deco mirrored columns. It's a dazzling backdrop for Chong Choi Fong's glamorous interpretation of Cantonese cuisine, which offers specialities such as golden prawns with salted egg yolk, squid in black bean sauce, braised beef in oyster sauce, and whole steamed fish. Less familiar sightings such as hot-plate lamb with leeks, or stir-fried minced pigeon wrapped in lettuce, maintain interest, while for many, the classic Peking duck with all the trimmings proves hard to resist. Dim sum menus offer plenty of fun, and you might finish with a warm chocolate pudding served with green tea ice cream.