Bruce Poole opened the doors of his restaurant overlooking Wandsworth Common back in 1995 and laudably the same principles are adhered to today as they were back then, namely to serve unfussy, high quality food in a relaxed, professional manner. The restaurant is beloved by the capital's foodies because those principles are more than met; it is, in many ways, London's neighbourhood restaurant. Verdant planters outside ensure it stands out on Bellevue Road, and inside the calming neutrality of cream, darkwood floors and chairs, modern artworks and linen-dressed tables is easy on the eye. There are classical French values running through the daily-changing menu, alongside broader European preparations and ideas; thus salt-cod brandade with fritto misto and piquillo pepper relish sits comfortably alongside chicken liver terrine with a pear and quince compôte and toasted brioche among first courses. The ingredients are of the highest order and it isn't all about the prime cuts here. Among main courses pigeon pithiviers with glazed endive, wild mushrooms and Madeira, and fillet of halibut with herb-crusted razor clams, Jerusalem artichokes, shellfish beurre blanc and almonds might compete for your attention. The food is not overworked, but that does not mean it lacks verve or refinement. Finish with hot chocolate pudding with praline parfait or rum baba with roasted pineapple and whipped cream, while saving a little room for some cheese is a canny thing to do. The excellent wine list has real global reach, plus there's a range European beers and ciders.