Brawn

On the Columbia Road - of flower market fame - this sister of Terroirs (see entry) is a vibrant place with quirky artwork, a definite buzz, and fabulously hearty food. The broadly European-focused daily-changing menu (particularly France and Italy) is straightforward enough - and that's the genius of it. Top-notch produce is served without a jot of flim-flam (as Boris might say), and our piggie friends get their own section on the menu. Thus pork rillettes or a selection of charcuterie may get the ball rolling, plus there's the likes of potted brown shrimps and toast; foie gras and confit shallots; snails and polenta; or oxtail and kidney ravioli and hispi cabbage. It's advisable to linger long enough to sample chocolate ganache with crème anglaise and praline. Cheeses and sourdough bread hail from East London and the wine list focuses on sustainable, biodynamic and organic varieties.