49 Columbia Road, LONDON, E2 7RG
Aside from the vibrant Columbia Road Sunday flower market, Brawn (sibling to Covent Garden's Terroirs) is arguably this edgier quarter of East London's main draw. Set among a run of interesting artisanal shops, the corner-sited restaurant is a fittingly hard-edged and pared-back neighbourhood outfit. The trendy warehouse-like interior of white-painted brickwork, high ceilings and dangling lamps is divided across a pair of rooms separated by a dinky bar. Plain-wood tables and retro wooden chairs foster the chilled look, while the staff are both smiley and informed. The European-focused daily-changing menu (provincial French and Italian with input from Spain) is driven by seasonality and provenance, and the cooking follows a simple path to deliver big-hearted flavours. Three-course formality is dispensed with here in favour of a selection of small plates for sharing. Piggy treats might take in namesake brawn or rillettes, to prime charcuterie, while gutsy offerings like duck gizzards line up alongside the more conventional, such as a summery risotto of girolles, English peas and parmesan. Top-drawer sourdough and superb wines - from biodynamic and organic producers - demand additional applause.
Tel: 020 7729 5692
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Dates closed: Xmas, New Year, BHs
Sunday lunch available.
Days closed for lunch: Mon
Days closed for dinner: Sun
Cooking type: Traditional European
Chef: Owen Kenworthy
Number of seats: 70
Accessible for wheelchairs.
A La Carte Dinner Main Course from: £12.00
Sunday lunch: £28.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.