30 St Cross St, LONDON, EC1N 8UH
The new order of fine dining is to chuck out the chintz and proffer an unpretentious attitude, to focus on the ingredients and to maximise flavour with various whizzy techniques. The guys behind Anglo do just that, in a simple room with a light modern feel, the space watched over by a small service team who are as professional and informed as they are youthfully exuberant. Some plates are brought to the table by the chefs, which is also part of the new order. Owner Mark Jarvis is an experienced hand, having kicked off his career at Le Manoir over a decade ago, and head chef Jack Cashmore has Sat Bains on his impressive CV. They're turning out some eye-catching food, inspired by British produce - hence Anglo - and offered up via a lunchtime à la carte and 5-course tasting menu, and a full-bore 7-course tasting menu in the evening. Everything arrives looking beautiful on attractive crockery, and flavours hit home. Sea trout stars in an opening salvo with tender kombu (seaweed) and a punchy miso foam, followed by a superb Hebridean mutton number, with sweet fermented red cabbage, multiple ways with ceps and a juniper-flavoured yogurt. A sweet course of English apple and caramelised ricotta is no less technically accomplished. Dinner comes with an optional wine and beer pairing for each dish.
Tel: 020 7430 1503
Please quote 'The AA'.
Open all year.
Days closed: Sun
Days closed for lunch: Sat
Cooking type: Modern British
Chef: Mark Jarvis, Jack Cashmore