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30 St Cross St, LONDON, EC1N 8UH

Modestly tucked just round the corner from Leather Lane market, pint-sized Anglo is achingly of-the-moment, a happening, pared-back joint serving high-end dishes in pared-back surroundings in the new-wave 'bistronomy' vogue. It's home to two highly talented rising-star chef's; Mark Jarvis (chef-patron) and Jack Cashmore (head-chef), both with stellar CVs. In the evenings, it's a no-choice seven-course tasting operation, while at lunch, a compact carte. The light, balanced, mod Brit repertoire changes frequently to reflect the seasons and best availability; simply named, highly creative dishes are fashioned with panache, the emphasis on precision, simplicity and flavour, while prices at this pitch would bring a smile to any financial adviser. Take a standout lunch opener of red mullet fillet served with garden-fresh carrot and the distinctive shoreline hit of sea beet and seaweed butter. At mains, perhaps another coastal thoroughbred; hake pave (cooked sous vide), its meaty white flesh partnered by a tantalising fresh oyster and the aniseed kick from smoky roasted fennel, while, to finish, chocolate and shiso; rich, refined dark chocolate and crumb paired with shiso ice cream to beguilingly cut through the richness. Clever stuff all round, while wines are a smart but snappily short choice too. Decor is resolutely cool and simple; polished concrete floor, cream walls, fawn-coloured wall banquettes, wood furniture and eye-catching dangling Tom Dixon pendant lights, while a big street window keeps things light and the passing action on view.

Further information

Tel: 020 7430 1503
Please quote 'The AA'.



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