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Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester

The Dorchester, 53 Park Lane, LONDON, W1K 1QA

4 rosettes

Ducasse, a French maître cuisinier with a rep undisputed from Monte Carlo to London, is not one of the avant-gardistes of the present-day international culinary scene, and given that nowadays it can feel as though contemporary cooking is all avant and no garde, that ought to come as a breath of fresh air. Ducasse is a classicist, a chef who may once have been surprised that there was still an understanding, let alone an appetite, for the repertoire of French haute cuisine in a capital city often intent on standing aloof from continental habits. There is some seriously good cooking going on here that remains an object-lesson in finely judged refinement. The main menu barely alters from one season to the next, although there is always a seasonal prix-fixe: winter offers a scallop in lettuce cream with caviar, foie gras raviolo in duck consommé with chestnuts, a serving of lobster tail in its own stunningly rich sauce, sea bass adventurously cooked in lapsang souchong with chanterelles, corn-fed Landes chicken albuféra, a portion of truffled Brie de Meaux, and an ad-lib dessert choice, perhaps a vacherin of what the menu still sweetly calls 'exotic' fruits. This kitchen stands proud on the strengths of classic mainstays such as halibut in shellfish marinière, veal loin blanquette, and saddle and rib of Welsh venison with pumpkin and cranberries. Everything is translated and the dishes are expertly described by the legions of flawlessly professional staff. Do leave space for one of the grander final flourishes, whether it be dallying over the cheese chariot (as an alternative to the sublime pre-paired Colston Bassett Stilton with a tot of liquorous Arbois vin de Paille), or a customised rum baba, which will be doused to order in your choice from half-a-dozen rums.

Further information

Tel: 020 7629 8866
Please quote 'The AA'.
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Open/closed

Days closed: Sun-Mon
Dates closed: 1-7 Jan, 18-21 Apr, 26-30 Dec
Days closed for lunch: Sat

Restaurant information

Cooking type: Contemporary, Modern French
Chef: Jocelyn Herland, Angelo Ercolano, Jean Philippe Blondet
Number of seats: 82
Accessible for wheelchairs.
Disabled toilets.
Vegetarian meals available.
No children under 10 yrs.
Parking available.

 

Restaurant price guide

2 Course lunch from: £65.00
3 Course lunch from: £55.00
3 Course dinner from: £90.00
Prices are for guidance only. Please check when booking for current rates.

 
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Nearest station: Hyde Park Corner, Marble Arch

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