28-50 Wine Workshop & Kitchen

Everyday venues where wine is taken as seriously as food have been thinner on the ground than they might be during Britain's latter-day gastronomic revolution, but change is in the air. Descend the stairs from Fetter Lane to this warmly appealing venture, and join in the fun. The digits in the name refer to the latitude range, north and south of the equator, within which the world's vineyards are planted. An agreeably cave-like atmosphere is established by the olive and cobalt colour scheme. Exposed brickwork, well-trodden floorboards and artfully placed mirrors add to the hang-loose ambience, and let us not scruple in saying that the staff are little short of brilliant, in both their wine knowledge and in the art of hospitable cheer. The food is rustic bistro French, stretching from earthy duck rillettes with cornichons and sourdough toast to trout, fennel and avocado in a mustard-dressed salad, from cod with pearl barley to fantastically tender pig cheeks and belly with swede 'spaghetti' and diced quince. These are very well-executed dishes, based on admirable raw materials, and all the more heartening for their simplicity. And then there are the eminently fairly priced wines, served by glass, carafe, bottle or pre-selected flight, whatever you wish.