Bodysgallen Hall and Spa

Majestic Bodysgallen Hall may have started out with humble beginnings as a 13th-century lookout post for Conwy Castle, but it now lords it over the whole area. Turn a circle, and your gaze scans from Conwy Castle and the estuary to Snowdonia, then the Isle of Anglesey, Victorian Llandudno and the Great Orme. Most of the National Trust-owned mansion that you see now grew up in the 17th century, including over 200 acres of parkland, parterres and rose gardens. Inside is all antiques, oil paintings, oak panels and open fires. Traditional, then, and as reassuring as the genteel, well-oiled service that runs like a Swiss watch. But while Bodysgallen respects the past, it doesn't turn its back on the present when it comes to dining: the cooking grafts sound French techniques onto top-drawer Welsh produce in fixed-price menus of modern British dishes. Starters might bring lightly-smoked quail breast with cider and green apple jelly, pickled mushrooms and soft-boiled egg, while a main course of herb-poached fillet of Welsh beef, sticky ox cheek, celery salt mash, roasted shallots, carrot and thyme ought to push all the comfort buttons. Desserts are not to be passed on either - try warm chocolate fondant with Amaretto ice cream, sugared banana and coffee sabayon. The wine list is a joy too, with plenty to mull over from France before setting off around the world.

From A55 junct 19 follow A470 towards Llandudno. Hotel 2m on right
Nearest station: Llandudno Jct

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