Bodysgallen Hall and Spa

Bodysgallen has been piling on the style since the 17th century, having become a National Trust property in 2008. It sits on a rise, imperiously overlooking Snowdonia, with Conwy Castle in its sights too, and encompassing immaculately husbanded gardens, including a geometrically precise parterre of box hedges, amid its 200 acres of grounds. Nor does the elevated tone abate once inside, as witness the Latin inscription across the fireplace in the oak-panelled lounge. That said, the staff achieve a fine balance of correctness and amicability that manages not to intimidate, and Gareth Jones's menus mostly speak a readily apprehensible English, rather than retailing esoteric technicalities. So let's start with a peppered mackerel fillet, perfectly seared, juicy and flavourful, served with spankingly fresh mackerel tartare, smoked tomato ice and basil. Fine local lamb rump comes with considered accompaniments of artichoke, ratatouille, tomato and olive raviolo and a punchy balsamic jus, and nobody need feel neglected at dessert stage, when roasted hazelnut mousse, bitter chocolate sorbet, warm brioche and a vanilla sabayon all turn up on the same smartly presented plate. A second restaurant, 1620, offers less formal and outdoor dining.